Looking up “Easter Island” online will quickly bring up
words like “disaster”, “catastrophe” and “ecocide”.
The
name “Easter Island” was given by Dutch explorer Jacob Roggeveen, who sighted
it on Easter Sunday, 1722. It is an extremely remote
island in the subtropical southeastern Pacific Ocean, more than 2,000 km (1250
mi) from the nearest island (Pitcairn), and over 3,500 km (1280 mi) from the
nearest mainland, Chile.
Easter Island, at the southeastern tip of Polynesia.
The island consists of three coalesced, extinct
volcanoes. It is debated when Polynesian settlers, the Rapa Nui, first
arrived, but likely between 800-1200 CE. Their population reached about
15,000, concentrated mostly on the eastern side of the island, but was down to
fewer than 200 by the late 1800’s. The island is now a territory of Chile.
Map of Easter Island (note the multiple craters).
Though it has a tropical rainforest climate,
with warm, humid summers and mild winters, the island is virtually
treeless. It is best known for the roughly 1,000 monumental statues—the moai—spread
throughout it. Their purpose is unknown, but anthropologists theorize they are
monuments to ancestors. (I question this, since there are no such monuments (that I’m aware of) anywhere else in Polynesia, and certainly not on this scale.)
Artist's concept of the island, pre-settlement.
Pollen studies indicate that the island was once forested
with broadleaf tropical and subtropical trees, especially a large, now-extinct
species of palm. However, Polynesian settlers brought their preferred food
source, the Polynesian rat, which spread unimpeded. There is
little evidence that the rats attacked the trees. Such remains as there are
show human agency in the trees being felled, not teeth marks. The trees were
cut for building and to create farmland. The rats meanwhile consumed smaller
plants and insects, completing the destruction of the Easter Island ecosystem
at multiple levels.
Moai on the slope of the crater near the water.
By the late 1800’s the Rapa Nui population had declined
sharply to only a few thousand. European explorers cited the environmental ruin
of the island, compared to others in the Pacific, and stated (denied by the
natives) that the Rapa Nui had turned to cannibalism. Raiders from Chile took
away more than 1500 islanders as slaves, leaving only 111 by 1872. From that
time on the local population has staged a recovery, numbering about 4500 today
(out of 7600 total). Though nominally the ethnic group has recovered, nearly
all cultural knowledge of the original settlers is lost. The original Rapa Nui society is
dead.

More moai, recently restored to standing position, lining the coast. These don't strike me as simple memorials to earlier generations. The moai found in their native positions face the water--only the modern restorations face inland. Half the statues were still being made in the quarry. This seems less like a gradual, generational practice to me, and more like a desperate rush. I suspect these huge, imposing faces were meant to be guards. Were they a collective pathological response, a panicked society's attempt to protect itself from collapse by means of an invented ritual? Critique away!
There are examples all across the globe of human societies
rising, then exhausting their environments to the point that the society
collapses. Some, as in the case of Easter Island, are entirely the fault of the
people, who made their own home almost uninhabitable. In other cases, such as
the Hittite Empire, natural disasters helped. But Easter Island is perhaps the
world’s clearest, if tiniest, example of humanity running headlong into the
limits to growth.
Rano Kau crater, southwestern tip of the island.
Tomorrow: introduction to Indonesia.
Be brave, and be well.